3 of the really big problems with sewing a skirt with good fit, is to get the right room for the hips and buttocks, then skirt neither becomes too loose or too tight, to get the right balance in the skirt, so it is not backward or will be skewed in the bottom strutter, and getting indsnittene located right in relation to the body, so there is no small strange bulges in the fabric crazy places.
The 3 things hangs together, and often the safest solution on all 3 problems, is to make a nederdels the basic pattern, and design her skirts out from it.
It is an experience I have done me, after having corrected a lot of skirts on my students at workshops around the country. Eventually I simply kept up with the organisation skirts, and began instead to teach to construct basic patterns from scratch. It is so simple that you can do it easily if you just get a little guidance. There is an online course about how to make a basic pattern for the skirt, and you can read more at heartattackskirts.com.
Design your own symønstre and sew a skirt with perfect fit
The next challenge is to design and construct its own symønstre to skirts, after the basic pattern is in place.
It can be a bit of a mouthful, if you’ve never tried to make its own symønstre, that’s why I created a module in the online course, where you learn how to make patterns for different skirts. A module that continuously expanded with new skirts, so you continue to receive new inspiration to sew a skirt that fits exactly to you.
On the way, you have a real chance to sew a skirt with perfect fit. It is something that is promised to the right and the left in symønstre, books and magazines – perfect fit. But it’s not quite as easy as it sounds. It requires both a good starting point, a lot of exercise and the right combination of fabric, design and tailoring.
Although perfect fit requires more than a pattern to cut out and sew it in substance a single time, then it’s definitely achievable, despite the fact that it does not happen every time you sit down to sew a skirt. It does not for me, I can reveal. But less can also give good skirts (often better than you can buy in stores), and with a good basic pattern you are free of many of the most vexing problems with the fit in a skirt.
You release for example for skirts that:
>> is sitting ugly over the hip, because there is either too little or too much fabric.
>> spins, when you go, so you just suddenly have the zipper on his stomach and pockets of gluteal.
>> Crawls up in the waist, and sits there like a sausage, who refuses to come down at the seat.
>> Tipper out back, and in no way is right at the bottom, no matter what you do.
>> is snug over either the stomach or buttocks, and stresses that you are a little larger than most models just there.
In other words, so provides a good basic pattern to accommodate the hips and buttocks. And stomach. And whatever else you might have, there must be room for. And so the rest is actually not so difficult to get honed.
The skirt in the picture here are made out from my basic pattern. It is not my perfect nederdels model, but it is pretty good. And it sits well! The neither case, tipper, bristle or doing other bad habits. There is a place for me in it, and that’s exactly what needs to be in a skirt. And should you think “I wonder what size Signe is on that picture?” then the answer is str. 44. How about. My stomach is a little bigger, in fact, but it does not when vehicle is corrected properly.
Symønstre, you say, but how about sewing a skirt?
Yes, it comes we are actually not much in to the course. For it is a course in making symønstre. Syteknikkerne can be varied almost indefinitely, and it is your task to combine fabric, design and sewing techniques to each skirt.
But I would like to share my choice of sewing techniques with you for inspiration, so here you get a peek into one of my skirts from the online course. It is a short straight skirt with a pleat exterior, which breaks the smooth surface. The challenge of the design lies in making interlayer on one side, and get the incision filed under it, you can learn to do inside the online course.
Let’s start with the front piece. It has got a load on one side, where the incision, as I have said, is filed under interlayer. In the other hand is the skirt completely normal with incisions.
It looks pretty square out, my skirt when it just like that is on the table. It is because I am pretty square. That is not so darn big difference on my taljevidde and my hip width, so it will be only a little curve on the side seam.
But because the skirt is made of my basic pattern, which is built up over my hip width, have the a (nearly) perfect fit with only a few modifications in the fabric. And with the right styling, such as. the open jacket in the picture further up, so looking not at all to my waist is almost non-existent.
Interlayer in front goes from waist to bottom and it is sewn on the right, so it is on the outside when it is finished. There is a picture guide to sew both the incision inside behind the gathering, and the interlayer, in online course .
If you choose to sew buttons in your load as an ornament, as I’ve done on this skirt, so you’ll need to do put the banks after the button diameter. Interlayer should be twice as wide as the button, and the button will be placed in the middle of interlayer – then it comes to “look good” on the basis of a classical design theoretical consideration of what is nice to look at.
On the back panel, there is a seam in the Middle behind. The waist is lowered a bit and the length is the map of, but otherwise there is not made changes from grundmøsnteret. So this skirt has exactly the same good fit as my basic pattern, but with a completely different stylistically expression, just by the few changes in the pattern.
And it is just that, a basic pattern: can be used for very different designs, without having to start over with the fit every time.
In this substance, which is a cotton Batiste from Meters Meters, I have chosen to sew an invisible zipper in the Middle behind. It’s my favorite, and I sew the zipper so often it makes sense, but in fact, it is here forvirernde in suitably designed fabric that you can stitch almost any zipper, and it will be close to invisible.
Inside skirt has a coating and lining. The liner is cut slightly larger than the skirt – ca. 3 mm in each nail — to allow room for movement. The reason is that foerstof are more fragile than most fabrics used for clothing, and therefore it goes faster in pieces at the seams. To avoid this, make the lining larger, so there’s not so much pressure on the seams.
The liner is sewn on the coating, which is then sewn into the skirt right against the right, turned back towards the wrong side and held in place by a decorative sticking around the waist.
At the top by the zipper I’ve sewn a hook fixed on the inside of the skirt. It ensures that the skirt doesn’t go up by itself, and helps keep the zipper is strong for many years.
Incision sews one not in before, if you can get rid of it. Instead folds to the extra fabric as a small load to match the coating, but gives just a little touch of extra movement to lined.
Here are some of the sewing techniques I’ve chosen for this skirt. In any other substance, I would choose other techniques, even if I use the same pattern. And then I will get another skirt, but still with the same good fit.
Make room for the hips and buttocks in your own skirts
If you have read with all the way down here, so you are no longer in doubt that a basic pattern for skirt is the surest path to a good fit in all your skirts. But Such a gundmønster is not a quick fix. You don’t get the perfect skirt in the first attempt, and it is a process that takes more than a single afternoon to go through.
On the other hand, it is a long-term solution that gives better results in the long run, when you become really adept at using your basic pattern and development of designs to suit you. And I will keep you in his hand, as long as you need, with new designs in the online course and inspiration to syteknikkerne here on the blog.